Peabody ~ It's All About the Ducks

Our Little Rock hotel was The Peabody. The ducks are definitely worth a post.

The ducks have a penthouse apartment at the hotel. Each day at 5PM they take the elevator down to the lobby. Our C-SPAN man was there to capture the moment.

Hotel guests gather in the lobby to see the ducks take to the red carpet on their way to the pool.

Time for a swim at the fountain pool in the lobby before heading back up the elevator

to their penthouse apartment.

All that swimming works up an appetite. Time for dinner!

What a delightful duckie life!

"...going to Graceland"

What's a trip to Memphis without a stop at Graceland?

Gone is the row of little el cheapo souvenier shops across the street that I remembered from a previous visit to Memphis. In it's place is a visitor's center with the Chrome Grill Restaurant (where you can actually eat at a table within a convertible) and several more "upscale" souvenir shops.

This was my first time on an actual tour. I expected more over-the-top glitz. The rooms were rather small and all very 70's. We did not get into the upstairs living area. The first story level is maintained just as it had been when Elvis lived there.

Most impressive were the many, many gold records that were displayed on the walls along one very long hallway. Walking down that hallway, more than anywhere else, one can really sense Elvis's remarkable musical talent and achievement. We also saw some of the costumes he wore when he performed. I also liked seeing Priscilla's wedding gown.

There were a lot of "homey" touches, as well. There were personal photographs. And there was Lisa Marie's swing set. Here's a picture:

The self-guided tour ended at the monument, fountain, and Elvis's gravesite.

So I have officially been to Graceland. Elvis is another musical giant who died much too young...

Martin Luther King, Jr. and the Civil Rights Museum

This part of our tour was really gripping. For me it was like "immediate history." I remember the Civil Rights activism of the late fifties and especially the sixties. Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated when I was in college, so I have a strong memory about that. I've read about the killing and I've seen accounts of it on TV. On this day, I was standing where it all took place.

What I didn't expect was the extent of the Civil Righs Museum on the property. There's a replica of a "whites only" lunch counter where sit-ins took place; there's a bus where you can sit and experience what it was like to take public transportation during segregation; there's the actual Freedom Riders' Greyhound bus that was bombed out ~ a blackened, twisted reminder of a not-so-distant past. There's even a life- size display of the garbage truck and workers and a description of the discrimination and danger of their work at that time. (The reason Martin Luther King, Jr. was in Memphis that fateful day was to lend his support to the garbage workers' strike.) 

The museum is located in what had been the Lorraine Motel. We went through the front entrance, then wound our way through the sights and sounds of the Civil Rights Movement of the 60's, eventually ending up at the room Martin Luther King, Jr. had been staying. The room is behind glass and has been left just as it was that day. Looking acrosss the street, one can see the window in the building where the shot is said to have been fired. 

There had been discussion years ago of tearing down this building. Thankfully it still stands. This is sacred ground of the Civil Rights Movement. 

Shiloh National Military Park

My first reaction ~ this is a huge place! I expected to see a smaller battlefield.

This is where the Union forces and the Confederates clashed, one of the “turning points" in the Civil War ~ a turning point because this battle demonstrated that the war would be prolonged and bitter, neither side willing to yield.

In total there were more than 100,000 troops engaged in this two day battle on April 6 and 7, 1862. If any side “won,” it may have been the Union forces who held the field. The Union forces did not pursue the retreating Confederates.

The whole place now is a park with canons here and there, and monuments put up by different States to honor those who gave their lives. Even though this is now a peaceful place, I felt somewhat uneasy because I knew that wherever I walked, most likely I was standing on ground that was once bloodied by the fallen soldiers. It must’ve been a horrific scene with different kinds of ammo and shrapnel flying in all directions, deafening canon roars, smoke, yelling, confusion, and screams of the wounded. I read that Union General William T. Sherman, commenting on Shiloh, said that it was so horrendous that it “would have cured anybody of war.”

After the battle, many of the dead were buried in trenches. Years later pigs were rooting up the remains, so farmers requested that the federal government do something about this problem. So, in 1894, the Shiloh National Military Park was established. It was named after the Shiloh Methodist Chapel that had been in the area.

At the Visitors' Center we saw an informative film about the battle that dated back to 1957. Think about that! This very dated film, in itself, was very interesting.

I came away from Shiloh thinking about the passions, convictions, and the political impasse that led to so many to sacrifice so much, both sides in this Civil War believing they were fighting for liberty.

President Who?

I'll admit I knew very little about our eleventh President James K. Polk before we visited his home and gravesite.

The Polk portion of our tour began at the Tennessee state capitol grounds where he is buried. Quite an impressive location. Nearby is an equestrian statue of President Andrew Jackson, also very impressive. Irises were in bloom, so it was especially pretty. I was distracted by the views, so I don't recall much of what our tour leader Richard Norton Smith was telling us at the time. I'll have to catch it on C-SPAN when it's broadcasted.

Our tour continued to the home where President Polk resided, about 95 miles away in Columbia, TN. Again, I was impressed ~ a comfortable home, ca 1816, federal-style architecture. There are over 1,000 personal objects here that belonged to the Polks. This truly seemed more like a home than a museum.

I liked seeing the inaugural gown of Sally Polk and a fan given to her, I think, by her husband, with images of the 11 presidents on it. Now that's a real gem of political memorabilia! Also fascinating is the daguerreotype of President Polk's Cabinet, the first ever image of the inside of the White House.

Polk's accomplishments? During his administration:
          * He kept his promise of running and being office for just one-term;
          * Three new States were added, so the U.S. extended from the Atlantic to the Pacific;
          * The very first U.S. postage stamp was issued;
          * Construction was begun on the Washington monument;
          * The custom of holding elections the first Tuesday after the first Monday in November
             was initiated.

From their portraits, the Polks seem to have been a handsome couple.Their time in the White House was very austere ~ no drinking, no singing, no dancing, and strict observance of the Sabbath. They had no children. Mrs. Polk outlived her husband by many years, and was most highly respected by all who knew her. She died in 1891.

Then it time to board our bus once again. We were going Shiloh. 

A Legend and a Destination

Yep, that's the legendary Charlie Daniels at the Grand Ol' Opry in Nashville, Tennessee. He is one dynamic performer, so I'm glad I was able to zoom in for a fairly good photo that was not one big blur!

The Presidents and Patriots Tour passed through Nashville and included the Opry as one of our events ~ a nice slice of Americana.

Never in my wildest dreams did I ever think I'd be in the audience in front of this famous stage. We were close up, great seats in the middle ~ or rather, I should say "pews" because that's what they were. The performances are on radio, so we heard all the commercials, as well. Any country musician could've been featured that night; we enjoyed one of the best.

Our hotel that evening was the Gaylord Opryland ~ a destination hotel, for sure. We stayed in one of the 2,881 rooms. The hotel comprises some 9 acres! There are 3 massive indoor atria with waterfalls, streams, fountains, bridges, and lush tropical plants and flowers. Gorgeous and amazing. I could've stayed there roaming around for several days. And of the eight hotels where we stayed during the trip, Opryland had the best pillows!

Okay, just one picture of the waterfalls:

After the show, back to the hotel, getting ready for the next day's adventure...

"Old Hickory"

Since I had just read Jon Meacham's The American Lion: Andrew Jackson in the White House, I was really eager to vist the Hermitage. What I particularly recall from the book is the description of a heartbroken Andrew Jackson leaving for Washington for his Inauguration, havng just buried his beloved Rachel who died after his election. He blamed her death on the stress she suffered during the campaign caused by opponents making a scathing issue of their marriage. (They may have married before she was divorced ~ major scandal.) Rachel is buried near their home where Andrew Jackson would later die and be buried.

The photo is of the gravesite memorial of President Andrew Jackson and his wife Rachel Jackson.

Even though Jackson never actually had children of his own, family was extremely important to him. He took with him to Washington Emily Donelson (Rachel's niece) and her husband Andrew Donelson. They both worked tirelessly for him in his administration, eventually getting into major conflicts with his Cabinet. Tense times.

Meacham's book also describes the lives and deaths of those he called his family, we well as of his slave Alfred. So I was really interested to see their gravesites, too. This made me more aware that they were real people, rather than just characters that I read about.

It may be said that Jackson's is the first "modern" presidency, because he expanded the prestige and power of the Executive branch. "Old Hickory" truly believed he was a "president of the people," elected by people from all states, and therefore had at least as much power, if not more, than Congress. He also believed in "limited" government.

A sad aspect of his presidency is the removal of the Native Americans to the West, and the resulting "Trail of Tears."

I did ask the guides whether there were any hickory trees at the Hermitage. I heard at least 3 different responses: "I'm embarrassed to say there are none." "Yes, there are a few, maybe near the entrance, I'm not sure where."  "There were some, but they were blown down by a storm years ago."

In memory of "Old Hickory" President Andrew Jackson, I do hope they plant some hickory trees at this national hisoric site.

Click on the title "Old Hickory" to learn more about the Hermitage.

#17

This man portrayed a very amiable President Andrew Johnson, our 17th President, at the Andrew Johnson National Historic Site in Greenville, TN.  Johnson was sworn in after the assassination of President Lincoln in 1865.

Johnson's first profession was that of a tailor. Since he lacked formal education, he actually paid people to read to him while he worked. His main teacher was his very young wife Eliza. The tailor shop, now enclosed within the Site, had become a gathering place of the townspeople for vigorous political debate. Johnson became alderman, mayor, state rep, governor, and was selected by Abraham Lincoln to be his VP running mate.

Johnson's presidential tenure is controversial. He is pretty much at the bottom of the popularity list in the ranks of presidents. He was the first to be impeached, narrowly escaping being thrown out of office by just one vote. He completed his term and eventually won reelection to office as U.S. senator, the only president to do so. He suffered a stroke and was buried according to his wishes, wrapped in the flag of the United States with a copy of the Constitution under his head.

After touring the charming home he owned for 24 years, we visited his gravesite on a very scenic hill overlooking Greenville. (This made for some white-knuckle "hairpin turns" in our tour bus on the way down, skillfully managed by our driver Charlie!)

Biltmore, A French Renaissance Estate

Day 2 of our journey found us at the grand, HUGE privately owned Biltmore Estate. George Vanderbilt opened this home in 1895 for his family and friends. We enjoyed a self-guided tour through palatial rooms, more like a museum than a home. The views, especially from the upper levels, seemed to be never-ending. The estate comprises some 8,000 acres.

For some reason, I was especially intrigued with Napoleon's chess set that is displayed in the library (with some 10,000 books on the shelves). I also liked seeing the original very rich clothing.

One thing I learned was that the people who lived here at the turn of the last century would change outfits about 6 - 8 times a day, always assisted by their servants. Different activities called for different kinds of clothing.

Our tour leader asked me if I would like living here. I think I surprised him when I said, "No, it just seems too oppresive, heavy, and dark." Over-the-top elegance is just not my style.

What I WOULD like, however, would be the gardens as our backyard! So lovely and peaceful. Lady Bird Johnson is said to have visited here before beginning the design of her Wilflower Center. The photo I've posted was taken at the estate's conservatory.

The gardens at Biltmore were designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, the same person who also designed New York's Central Park. There were acres of gardens, all masterfully designed. It was a relaxing time before boarding our bus and heading to our next stop Greenville, Tennessee, and the home and gravesite of President Andrew Johnson.

I Agree with Thomas Wolfe

We just completed the Presidents and Patriots Tour with historian Richard Norton Smith, video'd by C-SPAN. We visited Presidential sites and libraries and, along the way, other places of historic interest.

Our first stop was Asheville, NC and the boyhood home of novelist Thomas Wolfe. Depicted here is "Dixieland," the boarding house described so very accurately in Look Homeward, Angel. As I walked through the home, I could actually visualize and recall some of the passages in his book. We even saw pages of Wolfe's handwritten (and rewritten) work then in progress.

Other homes we toured were furnished with original pieces, or with representative pieces of the time period.Seeing Andrew Johnson's tailor shop, I could almost picture him meticulously hand-stitching suits while engaged in vigorous political debate with the townspeople who gathered there. At the Hermitage, I could imagine a very sad President-to-be Andrew Jackson on his way to his Inaugural, leaving the gravesite of his dearly beloved Rachel who had died after his election. At the LBJ ranch, I almost expected to see President Lyndon Baines Johnson walking along the banks of the Pedernales River after one of his famous BBQs on the lawn of his "Texas White House."

I discovered why I love history so much. It's because it's an opportunity to get in touch with the past, to try to experience what "life back then" was really like. That's why this trip was so enriching and so enjoyable.

However, on one occasion when I was in a "period room" that looked so very authentic, and I looked around and saw all the people on tour (looking a little out-of-place in that room), I realized that no one can ever really encounter history. No one can know exactly how it was, only about how it was... History is living, and our understanding of historical accounts changes according to our perspective and current life experiences.

And so I agree with Thomas Wolfe: "You Can't Go Home Again." History moves on.

I'm so grateful to have been part of this trip. We'll be looking forward to "re-living" it when it is aired on C-SPAN.. I'll be blogging about some of the highlights. Stay tuned!  

"Shirley Tulips"

So happy to see these in bloom before our trip. Interestingly enough, they are named after me.

We will be on our way for a tour of the South to include Presidential homesites and libraries, led by a Presidential historian ~ beginning in Asheville and ending in Austin. We've been preparing for this trip for many months.

Today it was time for last minute gardening, of course. The peas, swiss chard and beets are in, as well as the potatoes. (The potato seedlings are planted in 4 reusable bags. As the vines grow, just heap more soil and compost in the bags.) All they need now is sun, warmth, and gentle watering. Mother Nature provides the sunshine and Jenna promises to keep the soil moist, as needed. Hopefully, by the time we return, we'll see our crops peeking out of the ground.

If You Have the Opportunity...

go! We did. It was unforgettable, "An Evening with Garrison Keillor."

Garrison came to the Flynn Theater for a one person performance: 100 minutes of nonstop entertainment, both poignant and roll-on-the-floor-laugh-out-loud.

Storytelling, mostly, is a lost art. No one has perfected it quite like Garrison. The characters and scenes he describes are believable as well as memorable. They evoke recollections of people we may have known, or could've known. He describes a traditional culture that's about as down-to-earth as one can imagine.

I won't forget the Lutheran ministers on the pontoon boat and the bowling ball with ashes. I won't forget situations getting out of control because sometimes that can happen to me ~ I can identify. This was funny stuff. Garrison reminds his audience to keep things in perspective and to laugh more often.

Best of all, we saw a storytelling genius. Delightful performance!